Smederevka

If Pinot Grigio or Picpoul is your usual glass, this is that end of the shelf. Tropical and stone fruit over zesty citrus, a green apple edge, and a bitter-sour finish the winery itself calls green peach. That finish is what stops it tasting like everything else at the price.

Pour it with salads, grilled fish or roast chicken. The white to keep in the fridge door for whoever turns up.

It does not cost much because Smederevka is not rare. It is the leading white grape of North Macedonia, roughly sixty percent of everything white planted there. What you pay for is how it is made. Picked by hand off hillside slopes, pressed gently, settled clear and fermented cool in steel. Nothing else in it.

The grape is one of the oldest in the Balkans and takes its name from the town of Smederevo.