Kumova Reserve

Deep gold with copper lights. The nose is layered. Dried apricot, quince and golden raisin first, then vanilla, caramelised apple and toasted almond, with oak spice, honey and tobacco leaf underneath. The palate is full but refined. Baked pear, candied citrus and dried fig run through oak, hazelnut and cocoa. The finish goes on for a long time.

Drink it neat at room temperature, in a tulip or a small brandy glass. Give it a few minutes to open. This is a bottle for sitting down with, not for a round of drinks.

Pair it with aged kashkaval, roast lamb or veal with herbs, and smoked or dry-cured meats. Roasted red pepper relish suits the spice. Dark chocolate, dried figs and toasted nuts pick up the cocoa and the caramel.

This is the top of the Kumova range and the sipping end of it. About four years in oak, in a mix of old and new barrels. The old casks come from the winery's historic reserves and give roundness. The newer ones give spice and structure. If you drink Armagnac or aged Cognac, this is the one that will make sense to you first.

Distillates from several years are blended for depth. Distilled with fine lees and no preservatives on the heritage copper rectification column, then finished with coarse filtration only, so the texture stays intact.

Lozova rakija, grape brandy.