There's an old saying in Macedonia: "If you haven't tried rakija while you were visiting the country, it's like you haven't visited the country at all!"
Rakija, or rakia, is one of the most popular drinks in Eastern Europe, and above all in the Balkans. It is a fruit brandy, deeply tied to the region's history and culture, and it is usually served as an aperitif.
If you go to Macedonia and dine out, you are likely to be offered rakija, and you probably won't get much of an explanation of what it is. Once you see the little grimace everyone makes after a sip, you may feel intimidated to try it yourself. Don't be. The grimace is part of it.
Here is what rakija actually is, where it comes from, how it is drunk, and which bottle to open first. If you want to skip straight to the bottles, the four we carry are all from Tikveš and they are all grape rakija: Kumova Žolta, Kumova Bela, Kumova Traditional and Kumova Reserve.
What Is Rakija?
Rakija is a type of brandy and one of the most popular spirits in the Balkans. It is made from fruit and has a strong, flavourful taste.
Be careful not to confuse rakija with the Turkish spirit "raki". Rakija has a distinct fruity taste. Raki is mostly star anise-based and tastes closer to Greek ouzo or Italian sambuca.
Grape brandy is a staple in most Balkan households, and the reason it is so bound up in the culture is that families tend to make it themselves. It is drunk at celebrations and formal occasions, but it is not unusual to be offered rakija at any time of day. Drink it slowly.
History of Rakija
Because the Balkans were one country for much of the last century, there is no single origin for rakija. It is believed to have been first produced in the late 12th century, and recipes have been passed down through families ever since. Home distilling was restricted for long periods, so people made it quietly and swapped bottles with each other, which is part of why the drink is so varied.
Commercial distilling opened up in the mid 1980s, when the first official distilleries started appearing. Artisanal rakija has become popular again since, though some of it is very strong indeed.
How Is Rakija Made?
The method is broadly the same everywhere, but because people use different fruit, nothing is set in stone.
Rakija is made from fermented fruit, with plums the most common base. Grapes, apples, pears and even melons are all used. The fruit is picked and fermented, then placed in a still and distilled. After that it can be rested in oak barrels to age, in the way whisky is, sometimes for years.
Most families have their own method, and getting hold of a homemade bottle usually needs a local connection. Commercial producers are the easier route in. Tikveš distils its Kumova range on a heritage copper rectification column, a method borrowed from Armagnac, and rests the spirit in stainless steel and in old oak casks. You can read how each bottle is made on its own page, starting with Kumova Žolta.
Types of Rakija
There are hundreds of varieties. Here are three of the most common:
- Shljivovica – the most common type, made from plums. Strong and slightly sweet, and produced widely enough that you can find it almost anywhere.
- Lozova – made from grapes, and often a by-product of wine production. If you like the taste of wine, this is the one to start with. Every bottle in the Kumova range is lozova rakija.
- Travarica – infused with herbs, which gives it an aromatic, slightly bitter character. Common along the Adriatic coast.
The Kumova Range
Kumova is the rakija made by Tikveš, and it is the one we sell. Four bottles, all grape brandy, from clear and sharp to deep gold and slow.
Kumova Bela is the one to open first if you have never drunk rakija before. Crystal clear, fresh grape and white peach, served well chilled like a schnapps rather than sipped like a brandy. It does not ask anything of you.
Kumova Traditional is the sharp, clear end of the range. No oak, no colour, nothing between you and the grape. This is the rakija for a table of small plates: cured meats, pickles, olives, bread.
Kumova Žolta is the golden one. Rested in casks half a century old, which are too old to give colour any more and give spice and softness instead. Dried apricot, honeyed citrus, vanilla and almond. Start here if you want to understand what oak does to rakija.
Kumova Reserve is the top of the range and the sipping end of it. About four years in oak, distillates from several years blended for depth, and a finish that goes on for a long time. If you drink Armagnac or aged Cognac, this is the one that will make sense to you first.
How To Drink Rakija
Visitors often make the same mistake the first time they are served rakija, and it puts them off it for good.
Because it arrives in a shot glass, people assume it should go down in one. Nothing is stopping you, but that is not how it is drunk.
Grape brandy is strong. The standard strength sits at around 40% ABV, and it is not unusual to find bottles well above that. Take small sips, slowly, and keep a glass of sparkling water beside you. The taste is bracing at first and the water helps you adjust.
The glass matters more than people think. A tulip glass or a small white wine glass keeps the aromas together. Give the spirit two or three minutes before you sip. Bela and Traditional are best cold. Žolta and Reserve are best at room temperature, where the fruit and the oak come forward.
Tips For Drinking Rakija
1. Go for a good bottle
Poorly made rakija is unpleasant and unforgiving. Stick to established producers, and if you are trying an artisanal bottle, taste a little first so you know what you are dealing with. If you want a safe first bottle, Kumova Bela is the gentlest of the four.
2. Take your time
Rakija is meant to be drunk among friends, in a relaxed setting, alongside food. For the full Macedonian version, serve it with Shopska salad: tomatoes, cucumber, white cheese and olives.
3. Eat
Never drink it on an empty stomach. It is strong, and it is traditionally served with food for exactly that reason. Aged sheep's cheese, roasted peppers, ajvar and cured meats are the classic table. The pairing notes on each Kumova page go into more detail.
4. Don't mix rakija types
The usual rule about not mixing drinks applies here with feeling. Pick one and stay with it.
5. Enjoy it
Rakija takes some getting used to, and then it makes sense. Gather your people, put some music on, and take it slowly.
That is Macedonia's national spirit in short. It is a drink worth trying at least once, and it is best understood at a table with other people and something to eat.
Ready to try it? Start with Kumova Žolta, or see the full range on the Spirits page. To read more about Tikveš and the wines we carry, browse the rest of the Journal.